Overview: The portion of Devon called the English Riviera positively crawls with international visitors during warm summer months (May-ish to September). However, lucky Devonians know it’s cheaper and less frenetic to access these areas during “shoulder” seasons. That’s when farmer’s markets, galleries, and the fantastic Paignton Zoo offer wide-open walking paths and relaxed staff. Last-minute deals on all types of accommodation are also easy to score. This guide advocates visiting Paignton and Brixham on the second Sunday of each month for the Brixham Farmer’s Market. The guide agenda includes walking the South West Coast Path, town shopping, imbibing, petting goats, hitting the gym, ordering Chinese from a man named Ping…basically, anything and everything you need to know for three awesome nights in one of England’s hibernating tourism hubs.
Expected Duration: Arrive on a Saturday night + Explore Brixham and the South West Coast Path on Sunday + Spend Monday at the Zoo + Depart Monday evening = two full days, three nights.
Expected Cost: This guide recommends some specific accommodation, dining, and activities, for which prices are shown below. However, the region offers plenty of budget-altering opportunities.
Goodrington Lodge- These “self-catering” apartments are appropriately ranked by TripAdvisor as the best in Paignton. Read details below. While typically rented on a weekly basis, you can call the location for last-minute weekend deals. Visit the website for prices and contact information.
Food- Saturday night takeaway is about £7/ person. Lunch at the Guardhouse Café or in Brixham is around £6-11. Purchase dinner items at the Farmer’s Market. Lunch at Paignton Zoo is a very well-priced £6 or so. Bring snacks in from Morrison’s across the street (£3).
The Zoo- Day tickets are £14.45 adult and £10.45 children (there are other options, like the “Zooper Tickets” that provide discounted entry here and to Living Coasts zoo/ aquarium in Torquay).
Transport- Bus tickets on Stagecoach buses from Paignton into Brixham are around £5.80. The Local Link bus from Goodrington to the zoo is around £3.
Extras- A visit to the Torbay Leisure Centre is £5 for a class or £10 for the gym. A yoga session is around £6. I found shopping in Brixham comparably priced to other locations in the UK (minus London, of course).
Solo-Savvy: This trip is solo-savvy. But, if you are staying alone I recommend finding a hostel instead of a self-cater spot. There you are likely to meet other interesting travelers. Visit the English Riviera page for more accommodation options: http://www.englishriviera.co.uk/where-to-stay/accommodation/youth-hostels-and-bunk-houses
Requirements: Great walking shoes and warm, rain-resistant clothing. You will spend lots of time outdoors. With the right attire, it is perfectly enjoyable to walk around in mild rain typical of English Riviera shoulder seasons. Expect drizzle in either through the morning or as the weather settles in the evening.
The Guide:
Arrival
Paignton is a highly-accessible destination with a train station and bus depot. I rode Stagecoach buses to get there from Plymouth. I love Stagecoach because they pick-up and drop-off at any location en-route, meaning I caught the bus just outside my front door. Just under two hours later, I arrived to the Paignton bus depot. Goodrington Lodges are about 20 leisurely minute walk from the depot (past meticulous gardens and brightly-painted houses).
The website for Goodrington Lodge captures the ambience of the “luxury” location well (even in rainier months—picture all feature lovely summer scenes). The lodges feature private patios, access to a heated outdoor pool (closed until May or so), and fully-equipped kitchens. The best part are the floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking Young’s Park with paddle-boating lake, beach access, and a series of Torbay’s seminal multi-colored changing facilities. It’s a cozy nook to watch the sun rise and the world go by.
There are not many economical grocers between the bus station and Goodrington. There are, however, plenty of places to grab an adult beverage. Pick up a bottle on your way to the lodge then order Chinese delivery from local favorite, Rickshaw Boy (according to one expat-local, Ping is the “main man”). Sit back, watch TV, play games, and sink into your lux abode.
Arrival
Paignton is a highly-accessible destination with a train station and bus depot. I rode Stagecoach buses to get there from Plymouth. I love Stagecoach because they pick-up and drop-off at any location en-route, meaning I caught the bus just outside my front door. Just under two hours later, I arrived to the Paignton bus depot. Goodrington Lodges are about 20 leisurely minute walk from the depot (past meticulous gardens and brightly-painted houses).
The website for Goodrington Lodge captures the ambience of the “luxury” location well (even in rainier months—picture all feature lovely summer scenes). The lodges feature private patios, access to a heated outdoor pool (closed until May or so), and fully-equipped kitchens. The best part are the floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking Young’s Park with paddle-boating lake, beach access, and a series of Torbay’s seminal multi-colored changing facilities. It’s a cozy nook to watch the sun rise and the world go by.
There are not many economical grocers between the bus station and Goodrington. There are, however, plenty of places to grab an adult beverage. Pick up a bottle on your way to the lodge then order Chinese delivery from local favorite, Rickshaw Boy (according to one expat-local, Ping is the “main man”). Sit back, watch TV, play games, and sink into your lux abode.
Sunday: To market, to market
Another benefit of Goodrington Lodge is its accessibility to bus links. The #12 Stagecoach bus picks up just over the train tracks on the opposite side of Young’s Park, on the main road. The #25 Local Link literally picks up outside the front door (take this to the zoo tomorrow).
Brixham is the next village over from Paignton. This guide recommends taking the #12 bus for one part of the journey and walking the South West Coast Path for the other. The bus ride is less than 30 minutes. Catch the South West Coast Path at the far edge of the waterfront promenade at Goodrington Lodge. It meanders the coast in a well-marked, easy-to-follow route. Walking from Goodrington into Brixham town center takes about an hour and a half. Click HERE for a detailed route. In deciding when to walk versus ride, remember you will be shopping for dinner in Brixham and check the BBC Hourly Weather report for the day’s forecast.
Attending the Brixham market off-season guarantees the chance to taste, talk, and toggle with stall-holders. Plan to spend at least an hour wandering the market and through Brixham’s cobblestone streets, popping into whatever town shopping is open. Should you decide to eat in-town and the weather favors indoor seating, absolutely visit Verna’s Pepper Shack. It’s located next to a live-artist gallery, Strand. Verna’s dishes out legitimate Caribbean food over a view of the harbor. With a tourist attraction pirate ship in the harbor, it all feels a bit “Pirates of the Caribbean.”
Exit Brixham along the harbor to the right, following neighborhood streets to the Berry Head Hotel. The Berry Head is so totally antique English. Welcoming staff invite you take a look around panoramic ocean views in the bar. If you’re in the mood, grab a free newspaper and a pint. The loos are nice, too. After exploring, continue to walk the South West Coast Path to Berry Head, where an inviting café awaits.
Jump back on the path just to the right of the gated entrance to Berry Head. It continues past a shockingly deep rock quarry. When you reach windy Berry Head Point you’ll find a similar drop, this time directly into the ocean. Like many British coastal points, Berry Head formerly served as a naval instalment, meaning that despite a myriad of cement fortifications there is nothing protecting you from plummeting down the cliffs. Beware!
Competition for best café runs high on the English Riviera. The Guardhouse Café staunchly battles for title. Costa Rican coffee and American pancakes? Check. Chunks of crusty bread and kid-friendly toys? Check. Neighbor to the Torbay Coast & Countryside Trust? Check. Somehow c lean and dog-friendly? Yep. It’s all there.
One must eventually pry themselves from the warm shelter of The Guardhouse and return to Brixham. Other activities there include the super-touristy Smugglers & Pirates boat tour (they also host adult-friendly events like jazz nights). The Destiny Spiritual Lifestyle Centre offers unique yoga classes. Do stop by the perfectly-priced Bay Coffee Company looking onto the pirate’s ship in the harbor; its homemade food and clever owner offer warming treats. Brixham market stays open until around 5PM, so grab dinner items there on your way out. If walking the South West Coast Path back beware low visibility after around 6:30PM.
Another benefit of Goodrington Lodge is its accessibility to bus links. The #12 Stagecoach bus picks up just over the train tracks on the opposite side of Young’s Park, on the main road. The #25 Local Link literally picks up outside the front door (take this to the zoo tomorrow).
Brixham is the next village over from Paignton. This guide recommends taking the #12 bus for one part of the journey and walking the South West Coast Path for the other. The bus ride is less than 30 minutes. Catch the South West Coast Path at the far edge of the waterfront promenade at Goodrington Lodge. It meanders the coast in a well-marked, easy-to-follow route. Walking from Goodrington into Brixham town center takes about an hour and a half. Click HERE for a detailed route. In deciding when to walk versus ride, remember you will be shopping for dinner in Brixham and check the BBC Hourly Weather report for the day’s forecast.
Attending the Brixham market off-season guarantees the chance to taste, talk, and toggle with stall-holders. Plan to spend at least an hour wandering the market and through Brixham’s cobblestone streets, popping into whatever town shopping is open. Should you decide to eat in-town and the weather favors indoor seating, absolutely visit Verna’s Pepper Shack. It’s located next to a live-artist gallery, Strand. Verna’s dishes out legitimate Caribbean food over a view of the harbor. With a tourist attraction pirate ship in the harbor, it all feels a bit “Pirates of the Caribbean.”
Exit Brixham along the harbor to the right, following neighborhood streets to the Berry Head Hotel. The Berry Head is so totally antique English. Welcoming staff invite you take a look around panoramic ocean views in the bar. If you’re in the mood, grab a free newspaper and a pint. The loos are nice, too. After exploring, continue to walk the South West Coast Path to Berry Head, where an inviting café awaits.
Jump back on the path just to the right of the gated entrance to Berry Head. It continues past a shockingly deep rock quarry. When you reach windy Berry Head Point you’ll find a similar drop, this time directly into the ocean. Like many British coastal points, Berry Head formerly served as a naval instalment, meaning that despite a myriad of cement fortifications there is nothing protecting you from plummeting down the cliffs. Beware!
Competition for best café runs high on the English Riviera. The Guardhouse Café staunchly battles for title. Costa Rican coffee and American pancakes? Check. Chunks of crusty bread and kid-friendly toys? Check. Neighbor to the Torbay Coast & Countryside Trust? Check. Somehow c lean and dog-friendly? Yep. It’s all there.
One must eventually pry themselves from the warm shelter of The Guardhouse and return to Brixham. Other activities there include the super-touristy Smugglers & Pirates boat tour (they also host adult-friendly events like jazz nights). The Destiny Spiritual Lifestyle Centre offers unique yoga classes. Do stop by the perfectly-priced Bay Coffee Company looking onto the pirate’s ship in the harbor; its homemade food and clever owner offer warming treats. Brixham market stays open until around 5PM, so grab dinner items there on your way out. If walking the South West Coast Path back beware low visibility after around 6:30PM.
Monday: The best zoo ever
To verify the highly-subjective statement above, please take into account that:
1) I have been to a fair number of zoos and animal-based attractions;
2) I am not what you would call an animal-lover;
3) It was raining…I am on a budget… I spent the whole day wearing slightly uncomfortable wellies;
4) I visited during the off-season on a typically slow Monday (as I recommend you do, too).
Considering what a recipe-for-disaster the latter variables seem, I thoroughly enjoyed all six hours wiled away at Paignton Zoo. To walk to the zoo follow a straightforward Google Maps route across the park, up and down a few big hills, to the zoo’s entrance just past Morrison’s Supermarket. The #25 bus mentioned earlier picks up outside Goodrington at frequent intervals. The bus drops off at Morrison’s.
Paignton zoo posts a daily schedule at its entrance. From 10:30AM onward there are feedings, meet-the-keeper, talks, and other frequent events. Despite my intentions, I never made it to a talk because I was continuously distracted by pleasant little surprises. For instance, just outside the Sahara habitat is a “Nature Walk” where small plaques explain Devon’s flora and fauna. I realized how truly unique Paignton Zoo was when, at the top of the walk, I turned back to look over a handful of animals, botanical-garden trees, and out to the turquoise waters of the English Riviera. Because the zoo is very hilly, these kinds of awe-inspiring juxtaposed scenes occur throughout.
There is so much to see at Paignton Zoo. It’s got a crocodile exhibit, six different “habitats,” an elephant named Duchess, millions of frogs, a petting zoo, and fuzzy little baby things…Break for lunch at The Island restaurant, offering a surprisingly affordable and healthy meals like chili and vegetables (finished off with tea and cake, of course). A flock of pelicans and pack of monkeys provides the entertainment. While food stalls dot the zoo, most of them are closed during off-peak times. No worries: Grab snacks at Morrison’s to much throughout the day. Finally, save time for the Paignton Zoo gift shop. Keep an eye out for the “reduced” basket next to the check-out counter!
To verify the highly-subjective statement above, please take into account that:
1) I have been to a fair number of zoos and animal-based attractions;
2) I am not what you would call an animal-lover;
3) It was raining…I am on a budget… I spent the whole day wearing slightly uncomfortable wellies;
4) I visited during the off-season on a typically slow Monday (as I recommend you do, too).
Considering what a recipe-for-disaster the latter variables seem, I thoroughly enjoyed all six hours wiled away at Paignton Zoo. To walk to the zoo follow a straightforward Google Maps route across the park, up and down a few big hills, to the zoo’s entrance just past Morrison’s Supermarket. The #25 bus mentioned earlier picks up outside Goodrington at frequent intervals. The bus drops off at Morrison’s.
Paignton zoo posts a daily schedule at its entrance. From 10:30AM onward there are feedings, meet-the-keeper, talks, and other frequent events. Despite my intentions, I never made it to a talk because I was continuously distracted by pleasant little surprises. For instance, just outside the Sahara habitat is a “Nature Walk” where small plaques explain Devon’s flora and fauna. I realized how truly unique Paignton Zoo was when, at the top of the walk, I turned back to look over a handful of animals, botanical-garden trees, and out to the turquoise waters of the English Riviera. Because the zoo is very hilly, these kinds of awe-inspiring juxtaposed scenes occur throughout.
There is so much to see at Paignton Zoo. It’s got a crocodile exhibit, six different “habitats,” an elephant named Duchess, millions of frogs, a petting zoo, and fuzzy little baby things…Break for lunch at The Island restaurant, offering a surprisingly affordable and healthy meals like chili and vegetables (finished off with tea and cake, of course). A flock of pelicans and pack of monkeys provides the entertainment. While food stalls dot the zoo, most of them are closed during off-peak times. No worries: Grab snacks at Morrison’s to much throughout the day. Finally, save time for the Paignton Zoo gift shop. Keep an eye out for the “reduced” basket next to the check-out counter!
Extras
Torbay Leisure Centre is just across Young’s park and the main road from Goodrington Lodges. It hosts a selection of fitness classes for £4.85 and public swimming pool. If all of the walking in this guide doesn’t quite cut it (“it” being all the delicious food and drink), do consider taking a class.
Also know that this guide offers a very small snapshot from a Plymouth-specific vantage point into a very tour-worthy region. The English Riviera Tourism website constantly wins awards for being such a helpful resource. Nearly every business in the area is featured.
Torbay Leisure Centre is just across Young’s park and the main road from Goodrington Lodges. It hosts a selection of fitness classes for £4.85 and public swimming pool. If all of the walking in this guide doesn’t quite cut it (“it” being all the delicious food and drink), do consider taking a class.
Also know that this guide offers a very small snapshot from a Plymouth-specific vantage point into a very tour-worthy region. The English Riviera Tourism website constantly wins awards for being such a helpful resource. Nearly every business in the area is featured.
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