Sunday, October 12, 2014

The Plymouth Planner: Going Churching -- The Minister Church of St. Andrew's

Overview: On this episode of Going Churching, we visit the historic Minister Church of St. Andrew’s (Plymouth City Centre) followed by a bistro brunch, a long walk, and a local cider. 

Expected Cost: Thank God that Church is free. Brunch at Cafeé Rouge will probably run around £10: mains are about £6.95 and coffee refills aren't free! A pint runs around £3.

Solo Savvy? Yes; you will receive lots of extra prayers if you appear on a pew alone. 

Expected Duration: 3 hours. 

Requirements: Shoes fit for walking. A wide-brimmed Sunday hat is recommended. 

The Plan: The Minister Church of St. Andrew is located on the North end of the Plymouth Royal Parade, a hop away from the Plymouth Guildhall. The notable insignia, RESURGAM, hangs above its main entrance. The sign was erected during Reconstruction after the Luftwaffe Blitz of 1941. The Blitz left a “roofless shell” of St. Andrew’s and other cherished buildings. RESURGAM literally translates to “I will rise again.” The entire city adopted this slogan during the difficult years post WWII. 

The 9:30AM Holy Communion service follows a modernized version of the traditional Mass, containing the ritual sequence: stand, sing, sit, listen, kneel, pray, stand, say hello, sing, sit, listen, kneel, sit, listen, stand, walk, pray, nibble, sip, walk, sit, stand, sing, sing, and exit. 

If you’re not too hungry when Mass is over (St. Andrew’s communion is a nibble of Wharburton’s and a sip of syrupy-sweet wine), grab leaflets from the table to the left of the entrance and take yourself on a walk through the building. The pamphlets offer guided tours explaining the fascinating history of St. Andrews, its relics and antiques, and contain descriptions of the stained glass windows. Even if church touring isn’t your thing (or you’re wary of thetimefull citizens beckoning you with offers of post-church coffee and cakes) grab some reading materials to mull over during brunch.

Exit through the North Patio and take a sharp right toward North Cross. In a few yards, you will see the Cafeé Rouge. Positioned in the triangular-shaped white building on the corner, it boasts French-ness with guilded windows and a red front door. The waitress will slowly finish a bite of cake behind the bar before moseying over to seat you. When she does, ask for a window seat facing North Cross. You will recognize the canes of timefull church-goers at surrounding tables. In a town where nearly every institution closes on Sunday, Café Rouge proudly serves diners seven days a week. Order a coffee and a “French” breakfast.*** Don’t expect toast cut from one of the French loaves you see proudly displayed at the bar, however. Although my spinach, mushroom, and tomato omelette and coffee tasted lovely, I was disappointed by the same crusty Wharburton’s on my plate that St. Andrew’s blessed and served during Communion. Alas, you can take the French out of France, but you can’t take the white toast from the British (or God).

After poring through the St. Andrew’s history brochures and pouring coffee until you can’t possibly contain yourself, hit the toilet and the road. Head south down the Royal Parade. Take a left past the fountain, up the Hoe toward Smeaton’s Tower. Cruise past Plymouth’s historic landmarks: the Bowling Green on the south end (stay to watch the men play in their impeccably starched trousers and sweater vests); the panoramic view of Plymouth harbour; Smeaton’s tower; and the Tinside Lido pool. Walk past the tower and loop North, down the cobblestone streets with the ocean on your right. Just before you reach the Barbican shopping area you will notice a tall staircase leading to a lifted white bar called The Mayflower. Climb the stairs to find a pint and one of the best views of the harbour in the city. Ask the owner, who is surely working the bar, for a local cider. He’s a jolly old man who will be more than happy to entertain you, should you choose to chat. Otherwise, kick back at a stool next to the window, watch the sailboats float by, and say a little prayer for another relaxing, tasty, and fulfilling Sunday spent Going Churching.


**NOTE: Much to Emily's dismay, Cafe Rouge has closed! She now recommends walking to Monty's Cafe on the Barbican for breakfast instead. 

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