Au Revoir: Visit Roscoff the Right Way

Overview: A fantastic benefit to living in Plymouth is its location as a Brittany Ferry port, offering cruises by car or foot to the spa-and-tourism hovel of Roscoff, France. I visited Roscoff for +/-24 hours on my way further into the country. Making my journey at the end of March, I assumed an afternoon and large part of the next day provided ample time to explore the little port town.

Over the course of a Friday night and Saturday day I learned that:
1) Roscoff is an ideal staycation for Plymothians (especially those with spare euro), backpackers on their way into France, and as a lay-over if to road trip further into Europe…
2) IF one travels at any time other than a Friday evening and Saturday day between October and April.

Why? First of all, a windy, sweeping, chilly rain fell almost incessantly during my visit. My sweet server at Ti Saozon (details below) explained in broken English, “This is the north.” I marvelled that only six hours ago I was across the English Channel in “the south,” i.e. sunny Plymouth.

Secondly, France closes during the following times: Saturday afternoons, Sundays, Mondays, mornings, and the months of October-April. Most hotels, museums, visitor centres, and shops shutter doors or seriously reduce hours during those months.

Learn from my mistakes. To help you, my fair readers, I’ve spent more time researching Roscoff upon return than I did before I left. It is not an easy city to trip research, especially in Google-translated English. Information on hours, openings, schedules, and activities is spread across many websites or simply missing. The Roscoff tourism page (linked below) claims that it is “less affected by seasonal change” than other French destinations, which shocks me…Do other destinations disappear completely in low-season?

Expected Duration: Ensure a visit occurs on a weekday that is NOT a Monday. I.e., take the ferry overnight on Thursday evening and return in the afternoon on a Sunday. Or, take any of the 8AM morning ferries to arrive around 3PM.

Expected Costs:

Transit- Basic ferry fees are £35/ person on foot in daytime with no cabin. For two people and a vehicle, the cost is around £130.  Additional costs include overnight trips, cabin rental, and meal deals.

Accommodation- The cheapest Roscoff hotels are around 30€/ night. Learn from my mistakes: Spend more. Rent a nicer hotel room in or within walking distance of the city centre. They run from 70€-120€/ night. While exploring I found what I think is a campground on an onion farm. I am unsure of the cost or viability; links provided under “Resources” below.

Ferry to Ile de Batz- 8.5€

Food- I didn’t find it very easy to get good deals on food in Roscoff. There was little variation in menu prices. The place to save is drink, which you will do frequently. Order the local cider for 3€ per glass (versus wine for upwards of 7€). Purchase bottles of cider for 3.50€ from the grocers in the centre ville instead of the tourist attraction shops, where they run from 7€+. I found an awesome bar outside the train station (Le Sailor) where wine was .90€. The water in this bar was 2.70€. One can guess my drink of choice. There are more details on ferry food in “The Plan” below. I found a tourism pamphlet in Brest that claimed a Wednesday Farmer’s Market, perfect for cheaper picnic picks, but I am not sure if it runs in low-season.

Money exchange- Birttany Ferries offer a service at port and for a fee. Instead, exchange £ to € at the post office in Plymouth for free. I also used my British debit card to pull money from French ATM’s for a standard service charge. Cards are accepted most everywhere I visited in the region.

Optional costs include the onion museum tour, renting bicycles, and water sports.

Solo-Savvy: Yes, but more so in the high-season. Ask yourself: Do I feel more relaxed when traveling alone? During high season you will find plenty English-speaking travelers to chat with and ample activities. Conversely, I recommend bringing a friend if visiting in the low-season. I received funny looks when dining alone for dinner (of course, I smiled coyly and provided funny looks right back). Find a tag-along who speaks French. Bretagne/ Brittany is notorious for its lack of English speakers.

Requirements: In low-season, one MUST bring water-resistant clothing. I found cool sailor-style jackets in Roscoff for a steep fee. Outdoor walking shoes are helpful especially if exploring the Isle of Batz. Bring a swimsuit and towel. Sport-specific gear can be rented from the water sports centre on the harbor.

A Background on Roscoff and the Bretagne (Brittany) region:

Roscoff is located in the “department” of Finistère, northwestern Brittany. It has 1,000 kilometers of coastline. The French term for Brittany is Bretange and these terms are used interchangeably. The popular term for Brittany as “Little Britain” is a misnomer. Yes, many of the homes in the region are owned by Brits (especially along coastal spots like Roscoff). However, a surprising number of people here do not speak English. There exists a regional dialect and plenty of French colloquialisms. It’s a heavenly place for those interested in architecture and churches. Over the 16th and 18th centuries towns competed to build the most elaborate churches, churchyards, and religious sculptures. They built enclos pariossiaux, which mostly consist of a triumphal entrance, stone cross, ossuary (bone container), a church, and a walled courtyard. The little church in Roscoff city centre is a perfect example. Unfortunately, most churches I visited shut their interiors to the public (maybe because of the beggars sitting inside the entrance).

The Port of Roscoff is called Port de Bloscon, situated about a 10-minutes’ walk eastward of the town centre. It was originally formed to transport produce between the UK and France. Eventually, it expanded to promote British tourism to the north of France. I wonder if so few people here speak English because such promotion only took off in the 1980’s.

Roscoff is recognized for a few things outside its tour-worthy characteristics. It’s a popular seawater therapy location (the first started in 1899). According to a tourism site, it is “believed to be a place where [people] recuperate well…the combined use of seawater, seaweed, and fresh sea air of our region have proved to be extremely beneficial.” Today, such therapies translate to thalassotherapy (Wikilink below), a type of spa and massage. Several bright and modern medical facilities are located in Roscoff, too. Foodies love Roscoff’s onions, featured in many of its crepe recipes and the Roscoff seafood soup. Finally, a yummy local cider blends bubbles, sweet, and crisp flavor.

The Plan:
Brittany Ferries
Brittany Ferries asserts a 45-minute pre-arrival window. I was chastised by “Geraldine” for arriving only 30 minutes early. Show your passport twice upon arrival and send your bags through security. In Plymouth, you must walk through a metal detector, too. Once loaded onto the ferry, choose a campground: The front of the boat affords big windows and relative quiet outside meal-times but does seem to rock more than the middle. There is a mad-rush for breakfast. BEWARE: I watched many travelers attempt to use their meal deal tickets while still in port only to be told the ticket applies when in-motion. Food on the ferries is expensive: Soup runs at £3.50, the salad bar is £6-something, and the most popular option, a full meal + alcohol + dessert, is around £14. However, I recommend eating on the Ferry. It’s tasty, healthy, and a boredom buster. Beverages can be purchased at the “self-serve restaurant” and an on-board bar. I guesstimate that 75% of travelers probably imbibed adult beverages. I, however, felt a little too queasy to do as much…

The ferry rocks. While two on-board stores host a worthy selection of souvenirs and travel items they are prohibited from selling seasickness medications (I bought an adapter for only £3.99). One of the stores sells ginger biscuits claiming seasickness reduction. I found eating helped to settle my stomach; the biscuits, priced at only £.99, may be worth a try. Another suitable seasickness distraction is the very well-priced cinema, where movies like The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel II are played at a super affordable £6.50. Maybe the lady who let her young boy vomit into a seasickness bag in the middle of a public eating space ought to have considered this option….or at least taken him out to the back deck for some fresh air!

What you absolutely will not be able to do on the ferry is access WiFi. After two hours of trying without success to log on and I gave up. I crawled up on a bench to sleep instead. In fact, I found myself feeling very groggy. I slept like a baby (or like I wished a screaming baby near me would). Rock-a-bye baby?

Final logistical notes regarding the ferry: Payments can be made in Euros or GBP; electrical sockets are French; staff are French but speak English.

Accommodation
The port is a simple 10-minute walk from the city centre. French signs are easy to interpret and list specific hotel names.

Learn from my mistakes: Many hotels in Roscoff are closed until April. The cheapest hotel I could find while there was Hotel Regina (linked below), which I highly recommend NOT staying at. Unless you like overpriced and cold rooms without kettles, clean linens, and working showers. When I appeared at the front desk wrapped in a blanket, the hotelier offered me a space-heater. I kept it on the entire time, figuring that because I was the only person in the hotel, I could use as much electricity as I wanted.

There are deals to be had in Roscoff. They do not result in cheap accommodation but heavily discounted or perk-included bookings. Places to look for such deals are the Brittany Ferries emails, TripAdvisor (there’s a link to TripAdvisor on the BASEDtraveler main page), and the Visit Roscoff website (below). I thought the Hotel-Restaurant d’Angleterre looked nice (when it opens in April). It may be tempting to book a space at Roscoff’s famous Hotel Thalasstonic. I popped in to check out the scene. It’s a clean and modern and a spa haven, full of British hen-do’s and elderly people. From my brief visit I don’t think it’s worth the cost, especially during winter when the private beach and outdoor hot-tub cannot be enjoyed. Do not purchase anything in the Hotel’s shop, as the same products are sold at city centre grocers for literally half the price.

Exploring
First and foremost, one must walk to the end of Roscoff’s bridge to the middle of the channel. You will see the bridge extending off the local harbor into the channel. It crosses most clear and turquoise water, where marine life mingles with seaweed and shells in low-level tide pools. The bridge eventually disappears beneath the surface. I believe the bridge previously took visitors all the way to the Ile de Batz, a small island a 15-minute now serve by an affordable ferry from Roscoff. Ferries to the Ile run at regular intervals throughout the year. Most people spend their day walking, although there is a restaurant, guest house, tourist information centre, and hosted events there. (Links below).

Here’s a list of other activities and attractions in Roscoff:
Tourist Information Office: This is the best place to stop to learn what’s available in the city during your visit. The building faces the harbor in the city centre.
Jardine Exotique: People on Google say, “Magnifique jardine.” A ten-minute walk from the city centre toward the ferries. Its website is broken but I found tour information on the Tourism Bretagne page.
Sante Barbe Chapel: Less than 30 minutes’ walk from the city centre, this petite place of worship offers gorgeous views.

Onions & Johnnie’s Museum: Somehow I didn’t notice this museum as I walked around town. Moreover, I can’t find specific details online, just a vague mention on the Bretagne Tourism website. I assume it’s still operational but really can’t be sure.

Thalasso: Yah, go for it--- get a Thalasso massage! During low-season only the Thalado Hotel offers them but in high-season other locations do as well. If you don’t want to go all-out, get a haircut instead. Two very cute and busy salons/ barber shops are within the city centre. When in Rome…

Take a stroll: Follow the well-marked tourism signs in English and French through the city and out past the medical centers. Look for them on walls on free-standing. You will pass a house Alexandre Dumás stayed in and Our Lady of Croaz Batz, the local enclos pariossiaux. Walk along the promenade, learning about the medicinal heritage of the city, and past a closed cemetery (which struck me as morbid considering it is right next to the hospital). Next to the Thalado Hotel is a perky creperie and beach. End your tour there or continue to walk into the neighborhoods and past the nautical research center.

Eat and Drink: Roscoff’s best all-weather attraction! Absolutely visit Ti Saozon, a delightful creperie owned by a fabulous husband/ wife duo. They have a life-size replica of the wife’s grandmother’s grandmother perched in the French chic café. Grandmother founded Ti Saozon and looks very determined indeed. Order a bottle of cider and the day’s special crepe (3.50 and 8 Euros respectively). Finish with a sweet dessert crepe (everyone does). The place was still busy when I arrived at 9PM. If possible, reserve one of their delicate, spindly tables.
Another must-visit is Café Ty Pierre, located directly on the harbor. Despite the fact that it’s always busy, the laid-back yet efficient service staff provided effective service to diners on the outdoor terrace (smoking allowed) and in the cozy, contemporary interior. With free WiFi, ample beverage options, and great people-watching, it’s a good place to spend a few hours. This is where I tasted Roscoff’s fish soup (soup di pouisson), which I expected to be something of a stew. To my surprise, it is a smooth and blended fish-and-tomato-base tasting soup, warm but lacking in sustenance. While people on TripAdvisor say it’s the “best fish soup in Roscoff,” I recommend ordering one of the more substantial menu items for lunch. 

Escape from Roscoff
Roscoff is an excellent stopping-off point to access other parts of France. The train station, located next to Hotel Regina, offers regular services into larger towns like Morlaix where further connections are available. Trains here are a regional service called Ter from stations called SNCF. The train to Roscoff was a funny, miniscule single coach. The station was much busier on a Monday afternoon than a Saturday afternoon so consider booking tickets in advance if using weekday transit. I paid 18€ for a train to Morlaix and a connection to Brest. Do note, as well, that on my return journey the train was undergoing construction. I was re-routed on a bus then two train connections. If on a schedule be sure to check with staff as early as possible.

Get this: I met many travelers in France of all backgrounds and characteristics who hitchhike around the country. I heard only positive things about the experience. One of my friends managed to scour the East-West completely in two days, a shocking feat. Keep it in mind…

Real Ale University Chapter 3: Pub Crawl for a Purpose

 The ubiquitous British pub crawl. A Wiki-search of the origination of the pub crawl results in plenty of modern information. But I’m still unsure of its heritage. When I surmise on the origination of Plymouth pub crawls I envision crowds of bawdy sailors cavorting dark Union Street haunts. For me today the pub crawl serves a final lesson in my quest to become a real ale connoisseur, courtesy of Norm at Summerskills Brewery.

Norm decides to start our pub crawl for a purpose at the Millbridge Inn, Stoke. When Norm and I arrive around noon it’s still quiet. Norm chooses this location because it is hosting a beer festival, carrying the Summerskills Ninja and Indian Bones. The bar staff greet Norm casually before attempting to uncork his “pin” (keg). They struggle. Finally, Norm grabs the pliers and pops the keg open himself. We are poured a pint (for Norm) and a half-pint (for me). There’s no way I’m trying to match a master today.

We slide into a corner booth with a view of the footy and passer-by. As neighborhood-rats slowly enter, Norm and I talk taste.  “The Ninja is so much hoppier than Devon Dew,” he begins (remember from Chapter 2 that Ninja is the only Summerskills brew to use international hops). “It’s more aromatic, with a strong aftertaste.”

Norm points to the other pin on the bar. “Millbridge will open Indiana Bones* next. Bones is a russet brown, sweet and hoppy but quite potent at 5.6% alcohol.” He talks more about Devon Dew, the “most drinkable” Summerkills offer. “Devon Dew is a malted wheat that uses Pilgrim English hops.  “We use a higher proportion of malted wheat to malted barley in Devon Dew than in the rest of our beers,” Norm details. “The properties of English hops are a result of the terroir (geography, geology and climate) and this also has a bearing on the strains of malting barleys grown in the UK. Malt gets its flavor from sunlight and soil. The UK gets less sunlight than other beer-producing nations like the USA, Australia, and New Zealand. In fact, real ale changes slightly when exposed to sun.” He holds his glass up to the warm light streaming through the puckered glass windows. “The changes are known commonly as ‘skunking’ because of the skunk-like aroma that results.”

As the noise in the pub grows, Norm and I decide to head to the next location. We exit the green and yellow building (all the Plymouth pubs under this company’s direction are painted green and yellow). He directs us across Victoria Park, which used to be an inland waterway called Stonehouse Creek. Norm enlivens the tour when he notes, “The sick men of the Royal Navy were brought from the Dockyard to the Royal Naval Hospital via Stonehouse Creek and this was the origin of the term ‘up the creek.’” We continue to cross Union Street at the Palace Theatre, sighing at its shabby exterior. “That would make a great brewery,” I state. “I wish,” Norm chortles.

Next we cruise past the Theatre Royal and up the Hoe. I’ve yet to walk onto the Hoe without being called to pause: This oceanic view is probably the most stunning of any I’ve seen. We bob down Madeira Road. I see a chalkboard pointing “up” toward the Fisherman’s Arms. “This is my favorite pub in Plymouth,” Norm says. “It’s a free house, a cosy place, and rivals the Minerva Inn as oldest pub in Plymouth.” On our way Norm pauses at a low, wooden bench. “We used to sit on this bench and watch the sun sink on the Hoe. It’s outside what used to be the Commercial Inn, which closed in 2014. Several of the ‘Commercial refugees’ now drink in the Fisherman's Arms.” Up a windy cobblestone street we traverse, below an apartment building bridge, and we arrive to the Fisherman’s Arms.

Donna, the pub owner, greets Norm warmly with a pint of Devon Dew for him and I. She sits at the table with us. Behind her I see a huge bouquet of lilies on the bar. Behind that sit a group of men missing teeth and laughing heartily. The walls are adorned with historic images of Plymouth. Donna’s husband, Lee, works behind the bar. 

“This pub was owned by St. Austell until I bought it last December,” Donna explains. Now, she runs it as a free house. Norm uses this time to explain the difference between pubs that belong to companies (“pubcos”) and free houses. The main pub companies today are Punch, Enterprise, and Admiral Taverns. Pubs companies lease spaces to owners. The pub company negotiates all food and drink contracts direct with suppliers like Summerskills. Pub managers then choose from their pubco options at prices the pub company sets. This price is often higher than the open market price and totally irrelevant to what is happening in the bar.

Pub companies themselves are actually a relatively new phenomenon. To help explain the situation, Norm sent me an article titled “Pubcos drinking in Last Chance Saloon” by the editor of the Good Beer Guide.

The pattern of pub-owning in Britain has changed out of all recognition in the past few decades. Pubs used to be owned in the main by breweries. But government action in the early 1990s followed a Monopolies Commission report that showed that the large national brewers acted as a cartel, fixing prices and charging far more for beer than smaller competitors…As a result of sweeping changes brought in by the government of the day, most of the big brewers sold their pub estates to new pub-owning companies, known as “pubcos” for short.

“What’s the benefit?” I ask. “There’s less initial outlay when a new owner starts the pub,” Norm explains. But he explains that the propensity for pubcos to purchase failing pubs causes a constant cycle of pubs purchase/ sale, usually to the benefit of the pubcos. The article in Protz explains how devastating this cycle is for pub owners and neighborhoods (linked below). Because pubcos benefit from sale cycles they aren’t wholly inclined to support managers. The article shows, “Figures over the last four years expose the calamitous reality of the pubco business model, with a staggering third of pubs owned by the two largest pubcos being sold off in just four years.” 

While totally intrigued by the conversation, I cannot take another sip until I fill my belly with whatever incredible scent is wafting from the kitchen. Donna’s Chef is a Moroccan, hence the smoky cinnamon smell. I order a lamb tagine special and Norm the chicken skewers. When the tagine arrives, I giggle at the side of roast potatoes. You may be able to put a Moroccan in the kitchen, but there’s still a Brit in the bar.

After a couple more drinks, Norm and I part ways. Donna calls her little dog back when it tries to sneak out with us. Seagulls call overheard. Norm is off to another festival showcasing Summerskills ales. He invites me to join but I don’t think I can handle any more beer. I decide to take a long walk instead (see the recount of my eventful day HERE). Passing a few pubs on my way out of the Barbican I note that some post signs stating “free house.” I smile to myself. I finally know what that means. And I know exactly where I’ll order my next real ale pints.

Real Ale University Chapter 2: Location, Location, Location

 Well, this isn’t right, I thought as I looked at the construction works in front of me. My iPhone told me to continue to go straight on the Southwest Coast Path told Saltram, but my eyes told me Google Maps wasn’t aware of road works. I’ll have to use my spidey senses, I sigh, spinning my bike around. I was on my way to visit the Summerskills Brewery, just across Laira Bridge Road near the Plymstock Morrison’s. It’s my second lesson in Real Ale, graciously guided by Norm of Summerskills Brewery (check out Chapter 1 HERE, in case you missed).

I wasn’t really sure what to expect of the brewery. I hark from the land of Molson-Coors, where breweries churn out millions of gallons of beer a year. In Colorado, big beer competes with the ubiquitous microbrewery, who invite customers to sit among brew kettles and sip flights of the day’s special batch. I hadn’t the faintest idea what form of Plymouth’s oldest brewery.

Eventually I located the brewery not by the smell, which I kind of expected (the entire town of Golden, Colorado, smells like malt because of Coors Brewery). I found it by the Summerskills van parked prominently outside. Summerskills was at the end of a line of other warehouse-based companies, a familiar site in this part of the world. I lean my bike against the bikes of Rob and Dan, Norm’s staff, and bound in the open warehouse door.

Very quickly I realize that Summerskills Brewery is not like American breweries because it was not American. It was very, very Devonian. Pictures of beer drinkers and beer processes and beer awards and beer festivals line the walls. Smiling staff wear multiple layers to fight the cold. The whole place felt a little rustic, a little haphazard, and a quirkily disorganized. It felt exactly like I might have expected if I had thought to expect it.

Norm barely hugs me before I begin whizzing questions to at him. He explains that one of the most important parts of Summerskills ales is its malt. Norm sources from Tuckers Maltings (Newton Abbot), quoted from the website as being one of only four malthouses in England that still produce malt in the traditional way. They use barley grown in southwest England. Tuckers Maltings is a Devon institution, offering guided tours and a huge Beer Shop. Plus, they host the industry and crowd favorite Tuckers Maltings Beer Festival in conjunction with the Society of Independent Brewers (SIBA). In fact, it was a partnership specifically between Tuckers and Summerskills that launched the first festival in 1991. This year’s festival takes place this weekend, 16-18 April.

Before the barley ever reaches Norm at Summerskills it undergoes a germination process at Tuckers. Tuckers first soaks the barley in water. Then, it is spread across cool, wide floors, where the germination process begins. Sprouts that appear during the germination process are signs that starch, the seed’s stored energy, has been converted to simple sugar. Yeast requires sugar in the fermentation process (more details below). Before the seeds have the chance to fully germinate Tuckers halts the process, drying the sprouted malt in a huge kiln. At this point malt is sent in big bags to Summerskills who continue add the next ingredients, water and hops.

One of the first things a visitor to Summerskills encounters is a large round stainless steel container used for mashing and draining malt. Dan is standing on the outside of the masher, manually turning the malt with a small shovel and a big smile. Nearing the container I smelled the trademark scent of breweries: A musty, warm, hay-like comfort wafting around us. Dan’s job that day was to dump Tucker’s malt into the masher then add hot “liquor.” I look at Norm incredulously when he used this term. “You add alcohol to malt?” I didn’t know much about beer but I knew that didn’t make sense. Norm laughed. “No, in brew terms ‘liquor’ just means water.’” That made sense to me for a few reasons…

The hot liquor mixes with malt to make “porridge.” Norm insists that the porridge is edible. It smells so good, so working-in-a-barn nutritious, I am tempted to dip a spoon in. Summerskills leaves to porridge to sit, eventually draining a syrup called ‘wort’ through small holes in the bottom of the tun. The husks of the malted barley form a natural filter that keep the protein from the cell walls out of the finished product. This protein does get through in small quantities and will form a “chill haze” as it comes out of solution in cold beer. Wheat beer tends to be cloudy because it doesn’t have this natural filtration property. I’ve been surprised to see “floaties” in my ales past; now, I hope for this cloudy quality verification. Wort moves through pipes and into copper “kettles.”   It is boiled there with hops, then cooled quickly to about 20 degrees centigrade and collected in a fermenting vessel.

According to www.rpi.edu, hops are the cone-like flowers of the female hop vine. They give beer its bitter flavor and trademark “hoppy” aroma. They also help inhibit bacteria from growing in the beer. Norm flavors Summerskills brews with dry-packed hops sourced from England, except for the “Ninja” brew which appropriately receives its hops from Slovenia. Acting a little sheepish, Norm explains that he uses Slovenian hops for Ninja only because it really is a key ingredient with a flavor that cannot be achieved in the UK. He prefers to continue the Summerskill legacy. From his first day as brewmaster Adam Summerskill used only locally sourced ingredients, not because it was the cool, hip thing to do (as it is now) but because it just made sense. Tuckers Maltings barley taste the best. Tuckers is happy to put brewers in touch with their barley farmers if both parties are agreeable. The barley grown for malting has to be top quality so farmers are usually happy to show off their farms and fields. The English hops used at Summerskills are grown in Herefordshire and Worcestershire. The other main growing region in the UK is in Kent. Norm says, “We are invited every year by our hop merchant to go on a ‘hop walk’ to see the farms and the crops before and during the harvest.” It seems to me that knowing your source just makes good business sense.

On yeast, another key ingredient, Norm has this to say: Brewers yeasts are carefully selected strains that are suitable for the fermentation of wort to produce beer.  Hops are generally only added at the liquid stages for example to the wort in the copper, and into casks when filled with finished beer. Some brewers run the wort through hops after boiling to capture the aroma that would otherwise go up the chimney during the boil.

The methodology of brewing real ale means that not only does the beer have a lesser shelf-life but it also requires manual labor (versus the oft-machinated process seen for mainstream carbonated brews). A conundrum emerges. Pubs and bars think they ought to pay less for real ale because it won’t last as long; they run the risk of it souring in the keg before cost is recovered in sales. On the other hand, real ale ought to be sold at a premium because of ingredients and labor. Premium, locally-sourced ingredients are used and staff manually ushers ingredients through every stage in the process. Norm, Summerskills, and other brewers in the region are constantly trying to educate new pub-owners about the reality of real ale. New producers with dramatically reduced prices constantly appear on the market, hoping to cash-in on real ale hyper. Competition is tough. A lot of producers go “tits-up” (to use one of my favorite British terms). “Is that why I see so many different real ales?” I query. Norm nods his head, frowning. “It’s part of the reason, yes. A lot of those guys don’t last that long.”

During our tour Norm explains the unique traits of Devon’s water. When he says, “Devon has soft water,” I wonder if all the syrup has gone to his head. Alas, he’s actually describing the chemical elements of Dartmoor’s water, which has less minerals in it than water from other regions. Dartmoor water is perfect for producing stout, which might be one of the reasons why my first Summerskills love was the Shamrock Stout. When using soft water for his ales Norm has to manually “harden” it by adding minerals. In fact, this “hardening” processing is actually called “Burtonising.” Apparently, the hardest water is found in Burton-on-Trent (Staffordshire). And here I was thinking Liverpool is “hard!” (Get it? Gangsta’ reference? Come on, ‘Mericans…)

When we start talking about mineral properties I feel like I’ve returned to high school chemistry courses. “Are you a chemist?” I ask. Norm attended Brewlab, a “beer university” hosted by the University at Sunderland, UK, proudly displaying his certificate on the wall. Norm highly recommends this course for any beermaster hopefuls. The lessons he learned there are particularly important when experimenting with new flavors. Because of the required real ale process and ingredients, every time a new beer is produced an entire batch is made. “So you have to get it right the first time!” Norm says. “We haven’t ruined a batch yet,” he smiles.

While we’ve been milling about the brewery Rob and Dan have been hard at work, loading the recognizably simple Summerskills van with beer for delivery. Norm has an appointment to drop off his Devon Dew at Countryman’s Choice in Ivybridge and in South Hams at Yealmpton Stores. He spends a portion of his days driving to breweries, picking up and dropping off kegs. “It’s a lot of work,” he says, referencing life as a brew master. “But there’s nothing I’d rather do.”

Except maybe drink the beer, I think. Stay tuned for the final chapter in this series: Pub Crawl for a Purpose.

Travel Guide: Second Sunday on the English Riviera

 Overview: The portion of Devon called the English Riviera positively crawls with international visitors during warm summer months (May-ish to September). However, lucky Devonians know it’s cheaper and less frenetic to access these areas during “shoulder” seasons. That’s when farmer’s markets, galleries, and the fantastic Paignton Zoo offer wide-open walking paths and relaxed staff. Last-minute deals on all types of accommodation are also easy to score. This guide advocates visiting Paignton and Brixham on the second Sunday of each month for the Brixham Farmer’s Market. The guide agenda includes walking the South West Coast Path, town shopping, imbibing, petting goats, hitting the gym, ordering Chinese from a man named Ping…basically, anything and everything you need to know for three awesome nights in one of England’s hibernating tourism hubs.

Expected Duration: Arrive on a Saturday night + Explore Brixham and the South West Coast Path on Sunday + Spend Monday at the Zoo + Depart Monday evening = two full days, three nights.

Expected Cost: This guide recommends some specific accommodation, dining, and activities, for which prices are shown below. However, the region offers plenty of budget-altering opportunities.

Goodrington Lodge- These “self-catering” apartments are appropriately ranked by TripAdvisor as the best in Paignton. Read details below. While typically rented on a weekly basis, you can call the location for last-minute weekend deals. Visit the website for prices and contact information.

Food- Saturday night takeaway is about £7/ person. Lunch at the Guardhouse Café or in Brixham is around £6-11. Purchase dinner items at the Farmer’s Market. Lunch at Paignton Zoo is a very well-priced £6 or so. Bring snacks in from Morrison’s across the street (£3).  

The Zoo- Day tickets are £14.45 adult and £10.45 children (there are other options, like the “Zooper Tickets” that provide discounted entry here and to Living Coasts zoo/ aquarium in Torquay).

Transport- Bus tickets on Stagecoach buses from Paignton into Brixham are around £5.80. The Local Link bus from Goodrington to the zoo is around £3.

Extras- A visit to the Torbay Leisure Centre is £5 for a class or £10 for the gym. A yoga session is around £6. I found shopping in Brixham comparably priced to other locations in the UK (minus London, of course).

Solo-Savvy: This trip is solo-savvy. But, if you are staying alone I recommend finding a hostel instead of a self-cater spot. There you are likely to meet other interesting travelers. Visit the English Riviera page for more accommodation options: http://www.englishriviera.co.uk/where-to-stay/accommodation/youth-hostels-and-bunk-houses

Requirements: Great walking shoes and warm, rain-resistant clothing. You will spend lots of time outdoors. With the right attire, it is perfectly enjoyable to walk around in mild rain typical of English Riviera shoulder seasons. Expect drizzle in either through the morning or as the weather settles in the evening.

The Guide:

Arrival
Paignton is a highly-accessible destination with a train station and bus depot. I rode Stagecoach buses to get there from Plymouth. I love Stagecoach because they pick-up and drop-off at any location en-route, meaning I caught the bus just outside my front door. Just under two hours later, I arrived to the Paignton bus depot. Goodrington Lodges are about 20 leisurely minute walk from the depot (past meticulous gardens and brightly-painted houses).

The website for Goodrington Lodge captures the ambience of the “luxury” location well (even in rainier months—picture all feature lovely summer scenes). The lodges feature private patios, access to a heated outdoor pool (closed until May or so), and fully-equipped kitchens. The best part are the floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking Young’s Park with paddle-boating lake, beach access, and a series of Torbay’s seminal multi-colored changing facilities. It’s a cozy nook to watch the sun rise and the world go by.

There are not many economical grocers between the bus station and Goodrington. There are, however, plenty of places to grab an adult beverage. Pick up a bottle on your way to the lodge then order Chinese delivery from local favorite, Rickshaw Boy (according to one expat-local, Ping is the “main man”). Sit back, watch TV, play games, and sink into your lux abode.

Sunday: To market, to market
Another benefit of Goodrington Lodge is its accessibility to bus links. The #12 Stagecoach bus picks up just over the train tracks on the opposite side of Young’s Park, on the main road. The #25 Local Link literally picks up outside the front door (take this to the zoo tomorrow).

Brixham is the next village over from Paignton. This guide recommends taking the #12 bus for one part of the journey and walking the South West Coast Path for the other. The bus ride is less than 30 minutes. Catch the South West Coast Path at the far edge of the waterfront promenade at Goodrington Lodge. It meanders the coast in a well-marked, easy-to-follow route. Walking from Goodrington into Brixham town center takes about an hour and a half. Click HERE for a detailed route. In deciding when to walk versus ride, remember you will be shopping for dinner in Brixham and check the BBC Hourly Weather report for the day’s forecast.

Attending the Brixham market off-season guarantees the chance to taste, talk, and toggle with stall-holders. Plan to spend at least an hour wandering the market and through Brixham’s cobblestone streets, popping into whatever town shopping is open. Should you decide to eat in-town and the weather favors indoor seating, absolutely visit Verna’s Pepper Shack. It’s located next to a live-artist gallery, Strand. Verna’s dishes out legitimate Caribbean food over a view of the harbor. With a tourist attraction pirate ship in the harbor, it all feels a bit “Pirates of the Caribbean.”

Exit Brixham along the harbor to the right, following neighborhood streets to the Berry Head Hotel. The Berry Head is so totally antique English. Welcoming staff invite you take a look around panoramic ocean views in the bar. If you’re in the mood, grab a free newspaper and a pint. The loos are nice, too. After exploring, continue to walk the South West Coast Path to Berry Head, where an inviting café awaits.

Jump back on the path just to the right of the gated entrance to Berry Head. It continues past a shockingly deep rock quarry. When you reach windy Berry Head Point you’ll find a similar drop, this time directly into the ocean. Like many British coastal points, Berry Head formerly served as a naval instalment, meaning that despite a myriad of cement fortifications there is nothing protecting you from plummeting down the cliffs. Beware!

Competition for best café runs high on the English Riviera. The Guardhouse Café staunchly battles for title. Costa Rican coffee and American pancakes? Check. Chunks of crusty bread and kid-friendly toys? Check. Neighbor to the Torbay Coast & Countryside Trust? Check. Somehow c lean and dog-friendly? Yep. It’s all there.

One must eventually pry themselves from the warm shelter of The Guardhouse and return to Brixham. Other activities there include the super-touristy Smugglers & Pirates boat tour (they also host adult-friendly events like jazz nights). The Destiny Spiritual Lifestyle Centre offers unique yoga classes. Do stop by the perfectly-priced Bay Coffee Company looking onto the pirate’s ship in the harbor; its homemade food and clever owner offer warming treats. Brixham market stays open until around 5PM, so grab dinner items there on your way out. If walking the South West Coast Path back beware low visibility after around 6:30PM. 

Monday: The best zoo ever
To verify the highly-subjective statement above, please take into account that:

1) I have been to a fair number of zoos and animal-based attractions;
2) I am not what you would call an animal-lover;
3) It was raining…I am on a budget… I spent the whole day wearing slightly uncomfortable wellies;
4) I visited during the off-season on a typically slow Monday (as I recommend you do, too).

Considering what a recipe-for-disaster the latter variables seem, I thoroughly enjoyed all six hours wiled away at Paignton Zoo. To walk to the zoo follow a straightforward Google Maps route across the park, up and down a few big hills, to the zoo’s entrance just past Morrison’s Supermarket. The #25 bus mentioned earlier picks up outside Goodrington at frequent intervals. The bus drops off at Morrison’s.

Paignton zoo posts a daily schedule at its entrance. From 10:30AM onward there are feedings, meet-the-keeper, talks, and other frequent events. Despite my intentions, I never made it to a talk because I was continuously distracted by pleasant little surprises. For instance, just outside the Sahara habitat is a “Nature Walk” where small plaques explain Devon’s flora and fauna. I realized how truly unique Paignton Zoo was when, at the top of the walk, I turned back to look over a handful of animals, botanical-garden trees, and out to the turquoise waters of the English Riviera. Because the zoo is very hilly, these kinds of awe-inspiring juxtaposed scenes occur throughout.

There is so much to see at Paignton Zoo. It’s got a crocodile exhibit, six different “habitats,” an elephant named Duchess, millions of frogs, a petting zoo, and fuzzy little baby things…Break for lunch at The Island restaurant, offering a surprisingly affordable and healthy meals like chili and vegetables (finished off with tea and cake, of course). A flock of pelicans and pack of monkeys provides the entertainment. While food stalls dot the zoo, most of them are closed during off-peak times. No worries: Grab snacks at Morrison’s to much throughout the day. Finally, save time for the Paignton Zoo gift shop. Keep an eye out for the “reduced” basket next to the check-out counter!

Extras
Torbay Leisure Centre is just across Young’s park and the main road from Goodrington Lodges. It hosts a selection of fitness classes for £4.85 and public swimming pool. If all of the walking in this guide doesn’t quite cut it (“it” being all the delicious food and drink), do consider taking a class.

Also know that this guide offers a very small snapshot from a Plymouth-specific vantage point into a very tour-worthy region. The English Riviera Tourism website constantly wins awards for being such a helpful resource. Nearly every business in the area is featured.