Overview: A fantastic benefit to living in Plymouth is its location as a Brittany Ferry port, offering cruises by car or foot to the spa-and-tourism hovel of Roscoff, France. I visited Roscoff for +/-24 hours on my way further into the country. Making my journey at the end of March, I assumed an afternoon and large part of the next day provided ample time to explore the little port town.
Over the course of a Friday night and Saturday day I learned that:1) Roscoff is an ideal staycation for Plymothians (especially those with spare euro), backpackers on their way into France, and as a lay-over if to road trip further into Europe…
2) IF one travels at any time other than a Friday evening and Saturday day between October and April.
Why? First of all, a windy, sweeping, chilly rain fell almost incessantly during my visit. My sweet server at Ti Saozon (details below) explained in broken English, “This is the north.” I marvelled that only six hours ago I was across the English Channel in “the south,” i.e. sunny Plymouth.
Secondly, France closes during the following times: Saturday afternoons, Sundays, Mondays, mornings, and the months of October-April. Most hotels, museums, visitor centres, and shops shutter doors or seriously reduce hours during those months.
Learn from my mistakes. To help you, my fair readers, I’ve spent more time researching Roscoff upon return than I did before I left. It is not an easy city to trip research, especially in Google-translated English. Information on hours, openings, schedules, and activities is spread across many websites or simply missing. The Roscoff tourism page (linked below) claims that it is “less affected by seasonal change” than other French destinations, which shocks me…Do other destinations disappear completely in low-season?
Expected Duration: Ensure a visit occurs on a weekday that is NOT a Monday. I.e., take the ferry overnight on Thursday evening and return in the afternoon on a Sunday. Or, take any of the 8AM morning ferries to arrive around 3PM.
Expected Costs:
Transit- Basic ferry fees are £35/ person on foot in daytime with no cabin. For two people and a vehicle, the cost is around £130. Additional costs include overnight trips, cabin rental, and meal deals.
Accommodation- The cheapest Roscoff hotels are around 30€/ night. Learn from my mistakes: Spend more. Rent a nicer hotel room in or within walking distance of the city centre. They run from 70€-120€/ night. While exploring I found what I think is a campground on an onion farm. I am unsure of the cost or viability; links provided under “Resources” below.
Ferry to Ile de Batz- 8.5€
Food- I didn’t find it very easy to get good deals on food in Roscoff. There was little variation in menu prices. The place to save is drink, which you will do frequently. Order the local cider for 3€ per glass (versus wine for upwards of 7€). Purchase bottles of cider for 3.50€ from the grocers in the centre ville instead of the tourist attraction shops, where they run from 7€+. I found an awesome bar outside the train station (Le Sailor) where wine was .90€. The water in this bar was 2.70€. One can guess my drink of choice. There are more details on ferry food in “The Plan” below. I found a tourism pamphlet in Brest that claimed a Wednesday Farmer’s Market, perfect for cheaper picnic picks, but I am not sure if it runs in low-season.
Money exchange- Birttany Ferries offer a service at port and for a fee. Instead, exchange £ to € at the post office in Plymouth for free. I also used my British debit card to pull money from French ATM’s for a standard service charge. Cards are accepted most everywhere I visited in the region.
Optional costs include the onion museum tour, renting bicycles, and water sports.
Solo-Savvy: Yes, but more so in the high-season. Ask yourself: Do I feel more relaxed when traveling alone? During high season you will find plenty English-speaking travelers to chat with and ample activities. Conversely, I recommend bringing a friend if visiting in the low-season. I received funny looks when dining alone for dinner (of course, I smiled coyly and provided funny looks right back). Find a tag-along who speaks French. Bretagne/ Brittany is notorious for its lack of English speakers.
Requirements: In low-season, one MUST bring water-resistant clothing. I found cool sailor-style jackets in Roscoff for a steep fee. Outdoor walking shoes are helpful especially if exploring the Isle of Batz. Bring a swimsuit and towel. Sport-specific gear can be rented from the water sports centre on the harbor.
A Background on Roscoff and the Bretagne (Brittany) region:
Roscoff is located in the “department” of Finistère, northwestern Brittany. It has 1,000 kilometers of coastline. The French term for Brittany is Bretange and these terms are used interchangeably. The popular term for Brittany as “Little Britain” is a misnomer. Yes, many of the homes in the region are owned by Brits (especially along coastal spots like Roscoff). However, a surprising number of people here do not speak English. There exists a regional dialect and plenty of French colloquialisms. It’s a heavenly place for those interested in architecture and churches. Over the 16th and 18th centuries towns competed to build the most elaborate churches, churchyards, and religious sculptures. They built enclos pariossiaux, which mostly consist of a triumphal entrance, stone cross, ossuary (bone container), a church, and a walled courtyard. The little church in Roscoff city centre is a perfect example. Unfortunately, most churches I visited shut their interiors to the public (maybe because of the beggars sitting inside the entrance).
The Port of Roscoff is called Port de Bloscon, situated about a 10-minutes’ walk eastward of the town centre. It was originally formed to transport produce between the UK and France. Eventually, it expanded to promote British tourism to the north of France. I wonder if so few people here speak English because such promotion only took off in the 1980’s.
Roscoff is recognized for a few things outside its tour-worthy characteristics. It’s a popular seawater therapy location (the first started in 1899). According to a tourism site, it is “believed to be a place where [people] recuperate well…the combined use of seawater, seaweed, and fresh sea air of our region have proved to be extremely beneficial.” Today, such therapies translate to thalassotherapy (Wikilink below), a type of spa and massage. Several bright and modern medical facilities are located in Roscoff, too. Foodies love Roscoff’s onions, featured in many of its crepe recipes and the Roscoff seafood soup. Finally, a yummy local cider blends bubbles, sweet, and crisp flavor.
Roscoff is located in the “department” of Finistère, northwestern Brittany. It has 1,000 kilometers of coastline. The French term for Brittany is Bretange and these terms are used interchangeably. The popular term for Brittany as “Little Britain” is a misnomer. Yes, many of the homes in the region are owned by Brits (especially along coastal spots like Roscoff). However, a surprising number of people here do not speak English. There exists a regional dialect and plenty of French colloquialisms. It’s a heavenly place for those interested in architecture and churches. Over the 16th and 18th centuries towns competed to build the most elaborate churches, churchyards, and religious sculptures. They built enclos pariossiaux, which mostly consist of a triumphal entrance, stone cross, ossuary (bone container), a church, and a walled courtyard. The little church in Roscoff city centre is a perfect example. Unfortunately, most churches I visited shut their interiors to the public (maybe because of the beggars sitting inside the entrance).
The Port of Roscoff is called Port de Bloscon, situated about a 10-minutes’ walk eastward of the town centre. It was originally formed to transport produce between the UK and France. Eventually, it expanded to promote British tourism to the north of France. I wonder if so few people here speak English because such promotion only took off in the 1980’s.
Roscoff is recognized for a few things outside its tour-worthy characteristics. It’s a popular seawater therapy location (the first started in 1899). According to a tourism site, it is “believed to be a place where [people] recuperate well…the combined use of seawater, seaweed, and fresh sea air of our region have proved to be extremely beneficial.” Today, such therapies translate to thalassotherapy (Wikilink below), a type of spa and massage. Several bright and modern medical facilities are located in Roscoff, too. Foodies love Roscoff’s onions, featured in many of its crepe recipes and the Roscoff seafood soup. Finally, a yummy local cider blends bubbles, sweet, and crisp flavor.
The Plan:
Brittany Ferries
Brittany Ferries asserts a 45-minute pre-arrival window. I was chastised by “Geraldine” for arriving only 30 minutes early. Show your passport twice upon arrival and send your bags through security. In Plymouth, you must walk through a metal detector, too. Once loaded onto the ferry, choose a campground: The front of the boat affords big windows and relative quiet outside meal-times but does seem to rock more than the middle. There is a mad-rush for breakfast. BEWARE: I watched many travelers attempt to use their meal deal tickets while still in port only to be told the ticket applies when in-motion. Food on the ferries is expensive: Soup runs at £3.50, the salad bar is £6-something, and the most popular option, a full meal + alcohol + dessert, is around £14. However, I recommend eating on the Ferry. It’s tasty, healthy, and a boredom buster. Beverages can be purchased at the “self-serve restaurant” and an on-board bar. I guesstimate that 75% of travelers probably imbibed adult beverages. I, however, felt a little too queasy to do as much…
The ferry rocks. While two on-board stores host a worthy selection of souvenirs and travel items they are prohibited from selling seasickness medications (I bought an adapter for only £3.99). One of the stores sells ginger biscuits claiming seasickness reduction. I found eating helped to settle my stomach; the biscuits, priced at only £.99, may be worth a try. Another suitable seasickness distraction is the very well-priced cinema, where movies like The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel II are played at a super affordable £6.50. Maybe the lady who let her young boy vomit into a seasickness bag in the middle of a public eating space ought to have considered this option….or at least taken him out to the back deck for some fresh air!
What you absolutely will not be able to do on the ferry is access WiFi. After two hours of trying without success to log on and I gave up. I crawled up on a bench to sleep instead. In fact, I found myself feeling very groggy. I slept like a baby (or like I wished a screaming baby near me would). Rock-a-bye baby?
Final logistical notes regarding the ferry: Payments can be made in Euros or GBP; electrical sockets are French; staff are French but speak English.
Brittany Ferries
Brittany Ferries asserts a 45-minute pre-arrival window. I was chastised by “Geraldine” for arriving only 30 minutes early. Show your passport twice upon arrival and send your bags through security. In Plymouth, you must walk through a metal detector, too. Once loaded onto the ferry, choose a campground: The front of the boat affords big windows and relative quiet outside meal-times but does seem to rock more than the middle. There is a mad-rush for breakfast. BEWARE: I watched many travelers attempt to use their meal deal tickets while still in port only to be told the ticket applies when in-motion. Food on the ferries is expensive: Soup runs at £3.50, the salad bar is £6-something, and the most popular option, a full meal + alcohol + dessert, is around £14. However, I recommend eating on the Ferry. It’s tasty, healthy, and a boredom buster. Beverages can be purchased at the “self-serve restaurant” and an on-board bar. I guesstimate that 75% of travelers probably imbibed adult beverages. I, however, felt a little too queasy to do as much…
The ferry rocks. While two on-board stores host a worthy selection of souvenirs and travel items they are prohibited from selling seasickness medications (I bought an adapter for only £3.99). One of the stores sells ginger biscuits claiming seasickness reduction. I found eating helped to settle my stomach; the biscuits, priced at only £.99, may be worth a try. Another suitable seasickness distraction is the very well-priced cinema, where movies like The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel II are played at a super affordable £6.50. Maybe the lady who let her young boy vomit into a seasickness bag in the middle of a public eating space ought to have considered this option….or at least taken him out to the back deck for some fresh air!
What you absolutely will not be able to do on the ferry is access WiFi. After two hours of trying without success to log on and I gave up. I crawled up on a bench to sleep instead. In fact, I found myself feeling very groggy. I slept like a baby (or like I wished a screaming baby near me would). Rock-a-bye baby?
Final logistical notes regarding the ferry: Payments can be made in Euros or GBP; electrical sockets are French; staff are French but speak English.
Accommodation
The port is a simple 10-minute walk from the city centre. French signs are easy to interpret and list specific hotel names.
Learn from my mistakes: Many hotels in Roscoff are closed until April. The cheapest hotel I could find while there was Hotel Regina (linked below), which I highly recommend NOT staying at. Unless you like overpriced and cold rooms without kettles, clean linens, and working showers. When I appeared at the front desk wrapped in a blanket, the hotelier offered me a space-heater. I kept it on the entire time, figuring that because I was the only person in the hotel, I could use as much electricity as I wanted.
There are deals to be had in Roscoff. They do not result in cheap accommodation but heavily discounted or perk-included bookings. Places to look for such deals are the Brittany Ferries emails, TripAdvisor (there’s a link to TripAdvisor on the BASEDtraveler main page), and the Visit Roscoff website (below). I thought the Hotel-Restaurant d’Angleterre looked nice (when it opens in April). It may be tempting to book a space at Roscoff’s famous Hotel Thalasstonic. I popped in to check out the scene. It’s a clean and modern and a spa haven, full of British hen-do’s and elderly people. From my brief visit I don’t think it’s worth the cost, especially during winter when the private beach and outdoor hot-tub cannot be enjoyed. Do not purchase anything in the Hotel’s shop, as the same products are sold at city centre grocers for literally half the price.
Exploring
First and foremost, one must walk to the end of Roscoff’s bridge to the middle of the channel. You will see the bridge extending off the local harbor into the channel. It crosses most clear and turquoise water, where marine life mingles with seaweed and shells in low-level tide pools. The bridge eventually disappears beneath the surface. I believe the bridge previously took visitors all the way to the Ile de Batz, a small island a 15-minute now serve by an affordable ferry from Roscoff. Ferries to the Ile run at regular intervals throughout the year. Most people spend their day walking, although there is a restaurant, guest house, tourist information centre, and hosted events there. (Links below).
Here’s a list of other activities and attractions in Roscoff:
Tourist Information Office: This is the best place to stop to learn what’s available in the city during your visit. The building faces the harbor in the city centre.
Jardine Exotique: People on Google say, “Magnifique jardine.” A ten-minute walk from the city centre toward the ferries. Its website is broken but I found tour information on the Tourism Bretagne page.
Sante Barbe Chapel: Less than 30 minutes’ walk from the city centre, this petite place of worship offers gorgeous views.
The port is a simple 10-minute walk from the city centre. French signs are easy to interpret and list specific hotel names.
Learn from my mistakes: Many hotels in Roscoff are closed until April. The cheapest hotel I could find while there was Hotel Regina (linked below), which I highly recommend NOT staying at. Unless you like overpriced and cold rooms without kettles, clean linens, and working showers. When I appeared at the front desk wrapped in a blanket, the hotelier offered me a space-heater. I kept it on the entire time, figuring that because I was the only person in the hotel, I could use as much electricity as I wanted.
There are deals to be had in Roscoff. They do not result in cheap accommodation but heavily discounted or perk-included bookings. Places to look for such deals are the Brittany Ferries emails, TripAdvisor (there’s a link to TripAdvisor on the BASEDtraveler main page), and the Visit Roscoff website (below). I thought the Hotel-Restaurant d’Angleterre looked nice (when it opens in April). It may be tempting to book a space at Roscoff’s famous Hotel Thalasstonic. I popped in to check out the scene. It’s a clean and modern and a spa haven, full of British hen-do’s and elderly people. From my brief visit I don’t think it’s worth the cost, especially during winter when the private beach and outdoor hot-tub cannot be enjoyed. Do not purchase anything in the Hotel’s shop, as the same products are sold at city centre grocers for literally half the price.
Exploring
First and foremost, one must walk to the end of Roscoff’s bridge to the middle of the channel. You will see the bridge extending off the local harbor into the channel. It crosses most clear and turquoise water, where marine life mingles with seaweed and shells in low-level tide pools. The bridge eventually disappears beneath the surface. I believe the bridge previously took visitors all the way to the Ile de Batz, a small island a 15-minute now serve by an affordable ferry from Roscoff. Ferries to the Ile run at regular intervals throughout the year. Most people spend their day walking, although there is a restaurant, guest house, tourist information centre, and hosted events there. (Links below).
Here’s a list of other activities and attractions in Roscoff:
Tourist Information Office: This is the best place to stop to learn what’s available in the city during your visit. The building faces the harbor in the city centre.
Jardine Exotique: People on Google say, “Magnifique jardine.” A ten-minute walk from the city centre toward the ferries. Its website is broken but I found tour information on the Tourism Bretagne page.
Sante Barbe Chapel: Less than 30 minutes’ walk from the city centre, this petite place of worship offers gorgeous views.
Onions & Johnnie’s Museum: Somehow I didn’t notice this museum as I walked around town. Moreover, I can’t find specific details online, just a vague mention on the Bretagne Tourism website. I assume it’s still operational but really can’t be sure.
Thalasso: Yah, go for it--- get a Thalasso massage! During low-season only the Thalado Hotel offers them but in high-season other locations do as well. If you don’t want to go all-out, get a haircut instead. Two very cute and busy salons/ barber shops are within the city centre. When in Rome…
Take a stroll: Follow the well-marked tourism signs in English and French through the city and out past the medical centers. Look for them on walls on free-standing. You will pass a house Alexandre Dumás stayed in and Our Lady of Croaz Batz, the local enclos pariossiaux. Walk along the promenade, learning about the medicinal heritage of the city, and past a closed cemetery (which struck me as morbid considering it is right next to the hospital). Next to the Thalado Hotel is a perky creperie and beach. End your tour there or continue to walk into the neighborhoods and past the nautical research center.
Eat and Drink: Roscoff’s best all-weather attraction! Absolutely visit Ti Saozon, a delightful creperie owned by a fabulous husband/ wife duo. They have a life-size replica of the wife’s grandmother’s grandmother perched in the French chic café. Grandmother founded Ti Saozon and looks very determined indeed. Order a bottle of cider and the day’s special crepe (3.50 and 8 Euros respectively). Finish with a sweet dessert crepe (everyone does). The place was still busy when I arrived at 9PM. If possible, reserve one of their delicate, spindly tables.
Another must-visit is Café Ty Pierre, located directly on the harbor. Despite the fact that it’s always busy, the laid-back yet efficient service staff provided effective service to diners on the outdoor terrace (smoking allowed) and in the cozy, contemporary interior. With free WiFi, ample beverage options, and great people-watching, it’s a good place to spend a few hours. This is where I tasted Roscoff’s fish soup (soup di pouisson), which I expected to be something of a stew. To my surprise, it is a smooth and blended fish-and-tomato-base tasting soup, warm but lacking in sustenance. While people on TripAdvisor say it’s the “best fish soup in Roscoff,” I recommend ordering one of the more substantial menu items for lunch.
Escape from Roscoff
Roscoff is an excellent stopping-off point to access other parts of France. The train station, located next to Hotel Regina, offers regular services into larger towns like Morlaix where further connections are available. Trains here are a regional service called Ter from stations called SNCF. The train to Roscoff was a funny, miniscule single coach. The station was much busier on a Monday afternoon than a Saturday afternoon so consider booking tickets in advance if using weekday transit. I paid 18€ for a train to Morlaix and a connection to Brest. Do note, as well, that on my return journey the train was undergoing construction. I was re-routed on a bus then two train connections. If on a schedule be sure to check with staff as early as possible.
Get this: I met many travelers in France of all backgrounds and characteristics who hitchhike around the country. I heard only positive things about the experience. One of my friends managed to scour the East-West completely in two days, a shocking feat. Keep it in mind…
Roscoff is an excellent stopping-off point to access other parts of France. The train station, located next to Hotel Regina, offers regular services into larger towns like Morlaix where further connections are available. Trains here are a regional service called Ter from stations called SNCF. The train to Roscoff was a funny, miniscule single coach. The station was much busier on a Monday afternoon than a Saturday afternoon so consider booking tickets in advance if using weekday transit. I paid 18€ for a train to Morlaix and a connection to Brest. Do note, as well, that on my return journey the train was undergoing construction. I was re-routed on a bus then two train connections. If on a schedule be sure to check with staff as early as possible.
Get this: I met many travelers in France of all backgrounds and characteristics who hitchhike around the country. I heard only positive things about the experience. One of my friends managed to scour the East-West completely in two days, a shocking feat. Keep it in mind…
